Molokai

Last Friday we took a small Cessna from Maui to Molokai. The ride was bumpy, as they say, and one of the 7 passengers (not one of us) was miserable and begging the plane to stop it. A storm was approaching Molokai. Our luck. The rental car lady cringed when we told her we were staying at the Pu'uohoku Ranch. In the sticks, she said. What she neglected to say was that it is on the rainy side and has usurped the land of her ancestors. Bad relations abound on Molokai and the guide book warns of stink eye for tourists. Well the only stink eye we got was from Pit Bulls. 

The ranch was gorgeous and remote. Our cabin was spacious and well windowed. By the next day, this became important as it rained heavily all day. The temperatures dropped and we were downright cold. In Hawaii!!   We saw not a soul. No one around. No other guests. 

The only animals were spiders (on hats) and a large flock of the endangered goose called a Nene. Later we had a begging cat come visit and make herself at home. 

The Halawa Valley was at the end of the road (2 miles away). Even in the rain it was fantastically beautiful. But to hike it was another story.  As ranch guests we were supposed to get to do that free but not in high water. Someone did try a few days later but a Pit Bull was tied to the bridge so that you couldn't proceed. 

Lighter rain the next day allowed some exploration of the rest of the island. We drove out of the drippy forest to a much drier side. There were a few beaches and fewer tourists. This Monk Seal (also endangered due to smaller brain than other seals) has pulled herself up on the beach for a nap. The wind blew the sand, the waves crashed very large, and the rain hit once in a while. Later we found better beaches for swimming.  (Which we did a few days later). We also explored the overlook of the Halawa Penninsula where Father Damien administered to those with leprosy. We didn't get to visit as the steep trail was muddy and covered with mule poop. 

Grazing Nene's

The next day we went on a long hike which included great views of Maui and Lanai. We were on the back roads of the ranch. Luckily a Danish inholder of a homestead -off the grid-drove by and offered us instructions. 

Lunch stop. 

Driving around the following day, we came across  a huge vegetable farm. They sell all over including the mainland. Like Whole Foods. 

Our cabin the last day. Yes, it got sunny. 

Time to get into the car. 

More churches than places to stay. We were back in Halawa Valley where a native named Greg filled us in on his take of all the wrongs done to his people and how he was related by 13 brothers and sisters of his grandfather to just about everyone around. He was quite eloquent actually even he was simply living off the land.  Molokai is famous for its infighting and no growth stance. The Molokai Ranch conglomerate pulled up stakes entirely - movie theaters, stores, money. The area has quite a few derelict and dying buildings. Palm trees with tops cut off. Vindictive stuff. 

Halawa. 

Western States going upriver

Six of us parked once again at Murphy's Gate (horseshoe tree) to try the Western States Trail going up the American River. Once again, we were impressed with this trail. It had mostly good solid footing with plenty of elevation gain and loss, and good signage. It follows an old RR bed, crosses the river and parallels Highway 49 as it ascends towards Cool. The only annoying part were the many logging trucks heading back and forth on 49. When the trail veered from the road, we found an open location above the trail to eat lunch. It would have been fun to hike to Cool but three of us needed to return at a decent time. This trail is suggesting further exploration in the future, perhaps starting from Cool or further along. It was fun to see a string of mules being ridden up the trail. The riders were all decked out with big hats and coiled ropes. We had hiked 8.5 miles with a 1200 ft elevation gain. 

Can you find our shadows?

Western States

Looking for someplace warm to hike, four of us decided to hike in the American River Canyon.  Parking at "Horseshoe Tree",  we hiked the Western States Trail, arriving at the Auburn end at 11 AM. Not ready for lunch we decided to go back and explore some of the trails that head to the river. We found some single tracks that led to a couple of river bars. We headed up river to 

Tamaroo bar and found some shade for lunch while enjoying the view of the river beyond some brush. After lunch we continued up the river on a single track trail that was steep at times. At a ford (for vehicles?)on the GPS map we headed up the steep trail as it continued with other steep trails,  Eventually we hit the western States Trail, turned left for a short distance, and then right toward the car park. We had taken a very satisfying hike of 7.5 miles with a 1300 foot elevation gain. 

Lunch

They thought these barrels were going to be floating on the reservoir created by the Auburn Dam

Tamaroo  Bar. Gravel was an island. Water got deep. 

The alternate trail that John took was steep and treacherous. 

We 

S. Yuba

Wanting a wilder area, we skipped Spenceville, where the 9 o'clock group was going, and headed to the S. Yuba campground on the other side of Edwards Crossing. Just the two of us. The cold start was icy but warmed quickly when the sun hit. At Humbug Creek, we sat at a picnic table for lunch. Rather quickly we found we were not alone but the goal of hoards of lady bugs

On they came, at first just a few.  

Soon we realized the  ground was seething with them. The whole area was a red orange color. When we were quiet I could hear the soft pitter patter of their bodies falling off trees they were climbing. We amused ourselves by trying to feed them. Not having aphids handy, we tried a bit of carrot and then smoked salmon.  No luck. But they sure seemed intent on going where they weren't. 

We brushed lady bugs off and returned down the trail. Having not met anyone in the morning, we were surprised by a few hikers and a miner and a couple of guys on mountain bikes. We had hiked 9.5 miles with about a 1500 ft elevation gain. 

Wrap

We returned a couple of nights ago. With the lousy Internet and no time it's been hard to keep up with this blog. We had a great time although we feel the trip was a bit too packed with adventures. This was especially true with the Active NZ part at the end. It was a bit ridiculous for us to go into those caves or mountain biking. We love to hike - even long distances - challenging adrenaline sports are not interesting to us.  For this reason and the discomfort of the bus while listening to rock music Active NZ is a bit of a mismatch for us. However their choices of locations to stay were stellar. Except for their Auckland choice, a business hotel, the lodging was creative - comfortable with a view or outlook - just perfect. Eating as a group at the picnic tables outside is another plus. The other organization trip in Abel Tasman was fabulous. Wilsons timed everything perfectly, provided stellar lodging and food and leadership. The excursions even during the all day downpour were challenging and enjoyable. While on our own in Nelson, Picton, Wellington, and Auckland; we did our own one day excursions to visit various sanctuaries and tracks, museums and botanical gardens.  NZhas an on-going predator problem as no mammals except a couple of bats are native which is why sanctuaries are necessary. It was thrilling to see so many endangered species making a comeback. As we encountered last time, the New Zealanders were outgoing and friendly. We reconnected with old B&B friends for more social life than we get in a year. We also were very happy with all the people in the groups during  our arranged trips. Although we were by far the oldest, and we were among Giants and sports jocks, everyone was friendly and helpful. I just felt like a wizened midget. 

Waitomo Caves

Packing in ever too much, we were taken on a prime tourist-danger adventure before boarding our planes. Outfitted in ill-fitting heavy wet wetsuits,socks, hoods,helmets we were crammed into a van that drove us a short distance. There, we were issued inner tubes and told that we would now practice our jumps. A high jump into a freezing river was indicated but we were told we wouldn't have to do that high until we were in caves. The lower jump was for us. We backed up clinging onto our tubes in the sitting position and told to spring far from the platform to miss the rocks. Upon hitting the water I had an incident similar to one earlier in the trip at Abel Tasman. Throat closing feeling. Think it is asthma. Luckily it was quickly over but increased my anxiety about the caves. We took a hike to the caves with in our heavy wetsuits, carrying our inner tubes. The caves were a climb down rocks in a stream. Felt like I was going to my death. Shaking like a leaf as unpleasant guide barked instructions. Our hard hats protected us from stalactites and rocks as we crouched and walked lower and lower into a cold hell. Finally: first short jump went okay. Shaking getting worse only relieved by the amazing glow worms at the top of the caves. Like twinkling lights or the Milky Way. They lit the way although we also wore dim head lights. I breathed deeply and tried to envision the calming effect of taking a12 hour plane ride. When I could see John, I saw he looked as happy as I was. NOT. At one point we were to stand on the bottom and walk. But my feet didn't touch even with water up to my lips so the drill sergeant had to pull me along. Never was I so happy to see the light at the end of the tunnel. 

Tongariro Alpine Crossing

We were off bright and early with half the world to do this famous track on a bright and shiny New Years Day. Lots of Asians and Northern Europeans.  It is rated as the best day hike NZ has to offer and one of best day hikes in the world. We left the bus at the parking lot and someone comes around to park it at the end for us. Kind like a chain monkey. The trail is exposed and open as it goes up through the crater of this active volcano and descends to a lower elevation. It is 12 miles with a 2528 foot elevation gain and a 3670 foot elevation loss. Some of the trail is very steep and where not relieved by steps, there are chains and cables. At one place I was foundering in the scree and a guy helped me up, dropping his Go Pro in the process.  It skittered down quickly but was retrieved by someone below. The solid lines of hikers reminded us of pictures of the Chilkoot Pass.  I stepped aside numerous times to let faster hikers go by. Hardly anyone our age. When we got to the plateau, the jocks from our group decided to ascend the south crater. To me and several others it looked like something NZ ought to regulate. The angle of repose looked fragile and dangerous but they did it.  Some who did, questioned whether they should have. But NZ is loathe to regulate even though the volcano is active. This is part of the adrenaline encouragement practiced by the culture. But you can't sue in NZ so dangerous fun is practiced everywhere. 

Rainbow Mountain

On to Turangi but first we climbed Rainbow Mountain. Easy enough. The big one was coming up. After lunch we walked along the river which exits giant Lake Taupo. About an hour up the path is a serious waterfall. Also there was a thermal area along the river. After poking around Lake Taupo (think Tahoe City), we left the honky tonk New Years Eve crowd and headed to a fishing lodge inTurangi.  The normally quiet place had a Reggae festival going on with loud speaker and bands. Music sounded like rock, not Reggae.  John was happy to reunite with his boots which had been sent from Tutukaka. He proceeded to wad up newspaper to dry them out best he could. He got the paper from storage in his suitcase, thereby using his motto: "You never know when you might need it". 

Thermal spot in river. 

Stuffing the boots

Te Puia

Heart of tourist foolishness. Evening event like a glorified luau. Maori land and thermal bonanza. First geysers after yet another bit of education about the Maori. They were quite war like which seems to be glorified and glossed over at the same time. Like many cultures it is being resurrected and modernized to suit current tastes.  After an introduction we were given 10 minutes to walk through some fairly spectacular geysers bubbling mud pots. Then came the reconstructed Maori huts using no modern nails etc (except we found some...maybe that was for one of them.) The dark kiwi house was the usual: no kiwi. They knew that would happen as the kiwi is only awake for about 4 hours. An odd bird with nostrils almost at the tip of the long bill. Nocturnal in habit, it eats worms and is being decimated by dogs. A stuffed kiwi is brought forth. The Maori used to eat them and use the feathers for cloaks. But that wasn't mentioned at this venue. Hundreds of us watched the dancing and singing which once again was warlike.  Audience participated just like luaus. The best part was singing. One woman had a great voice. There were guitars  which seemed inauthentic as well as female participation in what feels like a patriarchal culture. We were disgorged into the gift shop and then the restaurant for a hangi. Buried (in cement) pit steamed meats and vegs. This was a buffet and you can imagine the lines hundreds of tourists (mostly Asians). 

Rotorua

Tourist Mecca. Geysers. Lakes. In the morning we went to a forest that is set up with bike trails. Easy ones and technical ones. We were outfitted with bikes and off we went. Early on, the group separated into beginners and advanced. Too many opted for the advanced and fell off their bikes. They should have known that with this adrenaline junky leader they should be cautious. One of the accidents resulted in broken ribs. That put a cramp in the rest of the trip for him. His wife had opted to sit it out by reading in the bus. She had vowed to never bike again after a serious accident that required reconstruction of her face. Our easy bike ride wasn't. Called level 2 on signs. Mr. Adonis saw me at one point asked if I was getting any air. Oh sure. It was a pretty forest with redwoods and the usual tree ferns.  My seat wasn't adjusted high enough. 2 hours of that was quite enough. After picnicking at the lake, everyone but us wanted to go zorbing. This is an expensive short thrill ride down a grassy slope in big plastic balls. Actually most of them just watched. We went over to the museum which was fascinating. Used to be a thermal spa. One movie gave me a thrill when the bench I was sitting on shook violently during a volcano scene. Caught by surprise. 

Lake Rotorua from motel. 

View from parapet at the museum. White roof is conference center but thermal part of Lake Rotorua. 

Te Aroha

Active NZ met us early AM. One family had left the group and 6 joined us. We picked up the new co-leader at the airport. She was energetic and experienced. On the way to Rotorua we climbed Te Aroha. Not a long climb but steep enough to require some re-tackling the muddy steps by backing up and sitting or pulling myself up by tree roots. Although most made it to the summit in the allotted time, I didn't. this was very upsetting as I envisioned some more spectacular hikes in the future being not allowed to come. The co-leader assured me this wasn't so. So we never got the view just close muddy forest. The geyser at the bottom was not functioning. 

Tiri Tiri Matangi

We had wanted to go to this island sanctuary 2 years ago but hard to get a reservation on the boat. It goes only once a day. And not every day. Our day was beautifully sunny and calm. A docent showed us around, identifying birds and plants. He was hard of hearing and couldn't hear some of the sounds. His protege did find a Little Blue Penguin coming out of the water and attempting to hop up the rocks to her nest box. 2 hops forward, 1 fall backward. I can sympathize. A few minutes later we saw some Oyster Catchers and their young hanging around on the beach. The young are totally camouflaged to match the beach. Saw numerous Saddlebacks which have made this enormous comeback on that island. Learned that rather than the 1000 left that we were previously told about,  there are an estimated 6000. Also some Takahe introduced in this sanctuary. They hang around in the grasses on top of the hill. These are the birds that they thought were extinct until someone found a few in 1948. This bird looks like a cross between a parrot and a chicken.  Beautiful place. Beautiful day. Ended with yet another party with our Auckland friends and some more from Honolulu at their friends' Malasian restaurant. 

Tui  taking a dust bath. Notice white tuft at throat. 

Takahe with chick