Molokai

Last Friday we took a small Cessna from Maui to Molokai. The ride was bumpy, as they say, and one of the 7 passengers (not one of us) was miserable and begging the plane to stop it. A storm was approaching Molokai. Our luck. The rental car lady cringed when we told her we were staying at the Pu'uohoku Ranch. In the sticks, she said. What she neglected to say was that it is on the rainy side and has usurped the land of her ancestors. Bad relations abound on Molokai and the guide book warns of stink eye for tourists. Well the only stink eye we got was from Pit Bulls. 

The ranch was gorgeous and remote. Our cabin was spacious and well windowed. By the next day, this became important as it rained heavily all day. The temperatures dropped and we were downright cold. In Hawaii!!   We saw not a soul. No one around. No other guests. 

The only animals were spiders (on hats) and a large flock of the endangered goose called a Nene. Later we had a begging cat come visit and make herself at home. 

The Halawa Valley was at the end of the road (2 miles away). Even in the rain it was fantastically beautiful. But to hike it was another story.  As ranch guests we were supposed to get to do that free but not in high water. Someone did try a few days later but a Pit Bull was tied to the bridge so that you couldn't proceed. 

Lighter rain the next day allowed some exploration of the rest of the island. We drove out of the drippy forest to a much drier side. There were a few beaches and fewer tourists. This Monk Seal (also endangered due to smaller brain than other seals) has pulled herself up on the beach for a nap. The wind blew the sand, the waves crashed very large, and the rain hit once in a while. Later we found better beaches for swimming.  (Which we did a few days later). We also explored the overlook of the Halawa Penninsula where Father Damien administered to those with leprosy. We didn't get to visit as the steep trail was muddy and covered with mule poop. 

Grazing Nene's

The next day we went on a long hike which included great views of Maui and Lanai. We were on the back roads of the ranch. Luckily a Danish inholder of a homestead -off the grid-drove by and offered us instructions. 

Lunch stop. 

Driving around the following day, we came across  a huge vegetable farm. They sell all over including the mainland. Like Whole Foods. 

Our cabin the last day. Yes, it got sunny. 

Time to get into the car. 

More churches than places to stay. We were back in Halawa Valley where a native named Greg filled us in on his take of all the wrongs done to his people and how he was related by 13 brothers and sisters of his grandfather to just about everyone around. He was quite eloquent actually even he was simply living off the land.  Molokai is famous for its infighting and no growth stance. The Molokai Ranch conglomerate pulled up stakes entirely - movie theaters, stores, money. The area has quite a few derelict and dying buildings. Palm trees with tops cut off. Vindictive stuff. 

Halawa.